What is in your knitting notion toolkit?

Knitting notions

What is in your knitting notions kit? I keep all of my notions in a big tin, because I love them and it is easier to access whatever you need compared to a zippered case.  I have a needle book where I keep most of the needles I use for weaving in the ends, I also have a set of three larger ones I use with bulky and super bulky yarn, they’re the ones in the tin.  Stitch markers, needle threaders, a thimble, a pair of scissors, two measuring tapes and my stitch counter.  There is also a few magnetic bookmarks that I use to mark printed patterns or my place in my stitch pattern books.  I like having everything I need in the same place.


New Knitting Reference Cards {Free Printable}

Back in 2010 I created some Handy Reference cards for knitters and crocheters.  I have been meaning to update them for a while. Something cleaner and clearer.


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So I present the new Handy Reference cards.

They include a knitting needle conversion card, crochet hook conversion card and a yarn weight reference card.  I also added a blank card so you could add whatever it is that you want to write instead of having to look up every once in a while.

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All you have to do is print on card stock, cut out then glue every two together, back sides together.  Add your notes to the blank card and laminate.

I added 4 inch marks to mine so I could check gauge if I need to without having to find my ruler.
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Trying out Addi needles for the first time


I came accross a little yarn store that stocks Addis. Yes, Addi needles in Kuwait. I bought a 2.5 mm circular to try it out. Sadly it is only 80 cm long, I really wanted a longer cable for sock knitting. I cast on some leftover sock yarn to test it out. Compared to the Knit Picks nickel needles, the tips are rounder on the Addi. They are the same length needle wize. The addi feels lighter but still substantial and doesn’t feel like you might bend or break it. The yarn glides beautifully on them. I think I prefer the sharper points but the addis excel at the join. It is much much much smoother, which is very vital to magic looping. Probably the reason I hate magic loop is because the joins on my knit picks is not that smooth. The yarn catches on the join all the time. I am impressed.

{Technique Tuesday} Contigous set in sleeves

SQUEEEEE!!!  Yes I am that excited about this technique and I am loving it.  For some reason I had been putting off learning this.  Actually turns out there is nothing to learn.  It is just as easy and simple as Raglan sleeve shaping but looks so much more polished and finished.  I am a lover of top down seamless knitting.  I just feel that it is less of a hassle and uses knitted fabric’s attributes.  Knitting can be three dimensional using increases and decreases and can be shaped to fit your body.
Contigous Set in Sleeves

This method was created by SuzieM on ravelry. She has a wonderful, very helpful and amazing group there too to help you with any questions.  This method has been around since 2010 and is quite popular, the group has a page listing many of the patterns that use this way of making sleeves.

You should totally check it out.

Knitting from the center out.


In crochet it is super easy to knit from the center out. Actually it is probably one of the first things you learn to do. It is the basis of amigurumi and most three dimensional crochet. In knitting it is a little bit harder. But still very doable.

There are several ways of doing it like using an umbilical cord as explained by the Techknitter or doing a magic ring as explained by knit picks.

While both methods are easy once you have had a little practice I want to show you how I sometimes do it. Basically it is a provisional cast on which you then unravel and thread your tail in the first round of stitches. It is slightly faster than having to knit an icord and less fiddly than the knit picks method.

You will need a crochet hook, waste yarn and dpns or a circular needle.

Chain a little more than the number of stitches you will need for your cast on. In this example I am going to knit a flat square so I will need 8 stitches for the cast on.

Pick up the bumps on the back of your chain with your knitting needle

Knit into the chain stitches.

If you are using using dpns then. Transfer 2 stitches on each needle so you have 4 needles with 2 stitches each. If you are using a circular needle then you need 4 stitches on each side.

Join the round as you would normally do.

Round 2: kfb all stitches.

Round 3: knit all stitches

Round 4:* kfb, k2, kfb* 4 times

Round 5: knit all stitches

Round 6: *kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb* 4 times.

Round 7: knit all stitches.

Repeat rounds 6 and 7 until you have the number of stitches you need.

Whenever you are ready, just thread the tail in a tapestry needle and thread it thru the stitches on the crochet chain. Unravel the chain and pull the stitches tightly as if it were a draw string weave in the tail and that is it. You have a nice clean looking center.

How to knit a center out square or circle



Crochet Cuties: Tape Measure Cuties and a Sale

I absolutely love my measuring tape. It is one of those really important tools that if you make stuff you are going to need all the time. If I didn’t think mine was so pretty I would have definitely made a cute cover for it like the ones below.

 Ups-a-Daisy measuring tape cover  Erin’s Rose Measuring Tape Cover

I am also having a sale at my Ravelry store. Buy 2 get the third pattern free. Use coupon code JUSTBECAUSE. Hurry up because the offer is valid until May 31st only.

{Knitting Tips and Tricks} Bookmark your Knitting

If you are a geek then you can just call this creating a restore point.  I always have a hard time ripping rows and then picking up the stitches again especially if there were yarn overs and the stitches keep getting twisted so I sometimes just end up ripping the whole thing.  Why waste all that good knitting when you can just save your knitting at a point where you are sure that has no errors and just rip to that point.

You only need a little piece of painters tape (or any tape that won’t leave a gummy residue on your needles)
A length of scrap yarn at least twice the length of your row.
Your knitting, I like to work this on a wrong side because they usually have less yarn overs or none at all.

Wrap the end of your scrap yarn with a small piece of tape. Don’t use too much or it will get bulky and your stitches won’t pass so easily over it

If you are using circular needles then it might be a good idea to do it where your cable starts. If you are using straight needles wrap it a couple of inches after the tip.

Now just knit or purl the row as you normally would, your stitches should just slide over the tape and scrap yarn. Once your done all of your stitches will be knit over the yarn. Tie the ends so the yarn doesn’t fall off. If you need to go back to that point all you need to do is rip and the scrap yarn will stop you from going any further and moving the saved stitches to your needle again will be much easier.