Rainbow Drops {Free Pattern}

I had this idea.  I have a lot of those.  Ideas I mean.  They just pop into my head at the most inconvenient times ever.  This particular idea materialized while I was knitting the Tella Sundress, which was not a good time for ideas to come up.  This idea had to do with white yarn and rainbow yarn. Oh, and bobbles.

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But I am a good girl (or I like to pretend I am) and dutifully finished the dress and took out my yarn and looked it. Bobbles, rainbow yarn and a white canvas. What would you do?

Rainbow Drops Closeup

I made a little clutch.

Rainbow Drops

I am in love with it. Not the actual thing and not crocheting it. I just love the texture and the little bursts of color changing all the time. I lined it and added a zipper but I don’t really want to use it. I don’t think I even want it. I just wanted to see those rainbow bobbles. I wanted to watch them form.

Do you want to make one?
You really should.
I mean every crocheter should do this at least once in a lifetime.
Yeah you know you want to, so here is how.

Materials

2 balls of sport weight yarn one in a solid color and one in a varriegated color (rainbows on white are awesome as you can see)

3mm hook

tapestry needle

scissors

zipper and fabric for lining (optional)

Glossary

SC Single Crochet

HDC Half Double Crochet

SCINC 2 Single crochet stitches in same stitch

RB Rainbow Bobble *yarn over, insert your hook in the stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over once more and draw it through the first 2 loops on your hook* repeat 4 times

* .. * Stitches between asterisks should be repeated

[ … ] number between square brackets indicates number of stitches

The Base

The base is a basic oval done in single crochet while turning after every round.

Start with the solid color and chain 31.

Round 1 : Turn the chain and work 30 SC in the back ridge of the chains. Slip stitch into first chain to
form the first round [60 stitches]
Round 2: SC in the next 30 stitches. 3 SC in turning chain. SC in the next 30 stitches. 3 SC in Slip
stitch. Slip stitch into first SC, turn and chain 1 [66sc]
Round 3: SCINC in next 3 stitches . SC in the next 30 stitches. SCINC in next three stitches. SC in the
next 30 stitches. Slip stitch into first SC, turn and chain 1 [72sc]
Round 4: SC in the next 30 stitches. *SCINC, SC* (3 times) in the next 6 stitches. SC in the next 30
stitches. *SCINC, SC* (3 times) in the next 6 stitches. Slip stitch into first SC, turn and chain 1 [78sc]
Round 5: *SCINC, 2 SC* (3 times) in next 9 stitches . SC in the next 30 stitches. *SCINC, 2 SC* (3
times) in next 9 stitches. SC in the next 30 stitches. Slip stitch into first SC, turn and chain 1 [84sc]
Round 6: SC in the next 30 stitches. *SCINC, 3 SC* (3 times) in the next 12 stitches. SC in the next 30
stitches. *SCINC, 3 SC* (3 times) in the next 12 stitches. Slip stitch into first SC, turn and chain 1
[90sc]

 

Sides

The first and third rounds are worked with the right side facing, while the bobble rounds are worked with the wrong side facing.  The yarn is carried from one bobble to the next.  All HDC stitches are made using the first color and only the bobbles are made with the second color.

Round 1: HDC in each stitch all around, slip stitch into first HDC to join the round, turn.

Round 2: CH 1, *HDC in the next 5 stitches, RB in next stitch using second color*, slip stitch into first HDC to join the round, turn.

Round 3: HDC in each stitch all around, slip stitch into first HDC to join the round, turn.

Round 4: CH 1, HDC in the next 2 stitches, *RB in next stitch using second color, HDC in next 5 stitches * , RB in next stitch using second color, HDC in next 3 stitches, slip stitch into first HDC to join the round, turn.

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Keep the second color in the front and the first color in the back when working on the bobbles.
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Don’t worry about the loop from the main yarn becoming loose you will tighten it later.
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Once you are done with the bobble, push the yarn back to the front, and take the main color from underneath it.
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Tug the main yarn slightly to tighten the loop.
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See how simple it is?
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That is it.
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Keep the yarn tension even so the fabric doesn’t pucker.
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Don’t those floats look cute too.
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Repeat rounds 1 – 4 until the case is the desired height.  Work round 1 one more time.  You may use the second color and work one more round of SC for a border.  Finish off.

Finishing

Weave in ends and make a zippered lining or just add a zipper the quick and dirty way.

The MummyGo Bag

I am calling this the MummyGo Bag because it is perfect for you mums out there, grabbing stuff and always on the go.  I wanted a medium sized bag that could hold my stuff and be easily accessible.  It is also very easy to make and takes almost under an hour from start to finish.  The corners aren’t rounded and the handle can be pulled to give it a gathered look that is so sweet.  You can carry it on your shoulder or hold it easily, whatever your style is.

First of all you will need to get your materials ready.

You will need:

  • 2 40 x 40 cm squares from the outer fabric
  • 2 40 x 40 cm squares from the lining fabric
  • 1 strip 80 cm x 15 cm for the handle
  • Sewing machine, needle, thread and an hour of free time
  • This MummyGoBag pattern piece
Fold your squares and using the pattern piece pin it on the fold in the top corner and cute it out on all 4 squares.  You should now have 4 U shaped pocket peices and 4 big U shaped squares (well almost U shaped)
Pin one outer pocket piece to one lining piece right sides together.  Repeat for the other two pieces.  These will be your pockets.
Sew them together leaving an inch or two for turning.  Remember to start with a back stitch and end with a back stitch so that they don’t come apart while turning.  Clip the corners and trim any extra fabric so they don’t bulk up.
Turn inside out and press ( you can ignore pressing but trust me it will make your life easier)
Pin the pockets to the right side of the main bag pieces and sew all around.  Remember the open part you kept for turning, make sure it is at the bottom so you can sew over it.
Sew the pockets and remember to back stitch at the begining and the end so the pockets take the abuse later on.
Put the two main pieces right sides together and sew along the bottom.  Repeat for the lining.
Measure 5 cm from the raw edge along the sewn bottom and mark.
Fold over the side and pin.
Fold it over and pin
Repeat for the other side
Repeat for the other corner,  it is almost like making a dart. Now sew from the top of the U to the other side
Repeat for the lining but leave an opening at the side for turning.  Don’t forget those back stitches.
Insert the lining into the outer body right sides facng
Sew along the top edges and opening.  Turn it right side out thru the opening you left in the lining.  Sew the opening in the lining
Top stitch along the edges for a cleaner look.
Fold over the edge 5 cm in on both sides.
Sew the edges?.
For the handle fold both sides towards the center then fold a second time in half. Press to make your life easier
Now sew along the edge.
Almost done.  Insert the handle into the folded and sewn edges.  Trim it using pinking shears so it won’t fray and pin them together.
Sew a square to close the handle.  You can hide that in one of the sides.
And Ta DAAAAA!  Your bag is complete.  Now go fill it with stuff and go out have some fun.

I made another one too.

If you make one of these I would love to see it so let me know.

How to: Open Toe Crochet Sandals for any size

I walk barefoot at home. I would walk barefoot in the street if I could, but I can’t. My daughter is a little copy cat so she too walks barefoot, only problem is that the tiles sometimes get really cold and she jams her toes in the tables all the time (she takes after her mother). I had seen lots of crocheted baby sandals, booties, shoes but couldn’t find something that would fit a toddler and was not closed because her feet get hot and were simple and plain. So I designed my own. The hardest thing in this pattern is getting a two and a half year old to stand still for 30 seconds while you draw her feet. After the drawing, the second hardest is to make her give you the paper so you can measure it because she’s running around all over the place screaming “my feet my feet” while waving the paper around. These really are so easy to make and take an hour or two from start to finish and you only need very little yarn. Adult sized sandals can also be made in exactly the same way.

You will need:

  • Worsted weight (thick worsted not light worsted, you don’t want a flimsy pair of sandals right?) yarn (how much will depend on the size of the feet)
  • 4.5 mm hook
  • 2 buttons
  • tapestry needle
  • scissors

  1. First you will need to draw out the feet on a piece of paper. Once you have measure width and length of the foot at the longest points. Subtract the width from the length. The number you get is the length of your starting chain. In my case the length was 15.5 cm and the width was 7.3 cm. My starting chain was 8.2 cm long which turned out to be 12 chains. Add one chain for turning so that is a total of 13 chains.
  2. SC in the second chain from the hook, then SC in the next stitch across. Slip stitch into the first chain to join and chain 1, you should not have a hole just a very thin rectangle
  3. SC in each stitch until you get to the turning chain, SC 3 in it, SC in each stitch until you get to the slip stitch, SC 3 in it then slip stitch to the first SC to join and chain 1.
  4. SC in each stitch until you get to the the first 3 scs that were worked together, SC 2 in the next 3 stitches, SC in each stitch until you get to the second 3 scs sc 2 in the next 3 stitches. slip stitch to the first SC to join and chain 1
  5. SC in each stitch until you get to the first 2 SCs that were worked together, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next stitch, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next stitch, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next stitch, SC in each stitch until you get to the second 2 scs that were worked together, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next stitch, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next stitch, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next stitch, slip stitch to the first SC to join and chain 1
  6. SC in each stitch until you get to the first 2 SCs that were worked together, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 2 stitches, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 2 stitches, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 2 stitches, SC in each stitch until you get to the second 2 scs that were worked together, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 2 stitches, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 2 stitches, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 2 stitches, slip stitch to the first SC to join and chain 1
  7. SC in each stitch until you get to the first 2 SCs that were worked together, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 3 stitches, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 3 stitches, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 3 stitches, SC in each stitch until you get to the second 2 scs that were worked together, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 3 stitches, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 3 stitches, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 3 stitches, slip stitch to the first SC to join and chain 1
  8. SC in each stitch until you get to the first 2 SCs that were worked together, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 4 stitches, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 4 stitches, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 4 stitches, SC in each stitch until you get to the second 2 scs that were worked together, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 4 stitches, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 4 stitches, SC 2 in the next stitch, SC in next 4 stitches, slip stitch to the first SC to join and chain 1
  9. If you are following you will realize that we are just working an oval base, with a length of straight scs then two half circles at each end. In the next rounds you will be adding a single extra SC between the increases. Keep going until the base is as big as the foot.
  10. Once the base is right you can start working on the sides.
  11. Once the size of the base is right.  SC in each stitch until you get to the first increase, work only 1 SC in each stitch and keep going to the second half circle.  Chain the same number you chained in your foundation and then slip stitch in the first SC of the round. and chain 1.  You have just created the strap  in the front.
  12. SC in each stitch until you get to the last SC before the chain, Skip it and skip the first chain, SC in the back ridges of the chains until you get to the last one, skip it and skip the first SC. Slip stitch into the second SC and chain 1.  Repeat for 3 more rows, every times skip a stitch before the strap and the first stitch in the strap and then SC along the strap and skip the last stitch in the strap and the first stitch in the sandal’s body.  Finish off and weave in ends.
  13. To add the second thin strap try on the sandal and attach your yarn where you would like the strap.  Measure the length across the foot to the other side of the sandal and chain twice the length and slip stitch in the same stitch where you attached the yarn.  Repeat for the second sandal but on the opposite side.
  14. Add the buttons and weave in all ends.
  15. Enjoy your sandals.
  16. If you would like to make the surface non slip you can use a glue gun or some puff paint and make some dots on the sole.

This is a tutorial and I tried to explain it as clearly as possible, if you need any help leave a comment or send me an email jessyz [at] chocolatemintsinajar [dot] com and I’ll help you out.